The trees of the Galician forests have eyes. Big ones that are open wide and always watching as pilgrims pass through the bowered paths tripping lightly across the wide stone […]

I hate putting on my boots. The process is preceded by a ten minute ritual of popping blisters, applying antiseptic, cutting and folding gauze, bandaging raw spots with tape and […]

The interior of the cathedral is crumbling. I can’t say that I’d even call it a cathedral, more of a chapel built to the scale of the small town that […]

Astorga to Rabanal is a lovely walk. Today was marked by the messages, inscribed on stones, and left along the path. Before long, I found myself hunting for them, like […]

The meseta is long and hot. After two weeks toiling through mountains and rolling hills, over rocky terrain and ankle deep slippery leaves, one would think it a relief to […]

The meseta is long, and hot. The Way stretches off, through endless waves of grain blown by oceans of invisible wind across the long miles of nowhere. The Pyrenees have […]

Everyday the Camino surprises me. Wheat fields laughing in red poppies. Spanish blue skies ruffled like flamenco dresses with clouds. Flocks of sheep crowding the path, jockeying for position in […]

The Camino is littered with broken hearts. Some so raw that they’re carried in blood soaked hands, by pilgrims whose eyes are lakes of sorrow. Some, bandaged with great care […]