There’s nothing in the red center of Australia
October 19, 2013 in Australia, Oceania, Travelogue
There’s nothing in the red center of Australia.
If by nothing you mean echos of endless wide spaces and wide sky that holds the world together like an eternal ribbon of Australian blue around a package of rainbow colours that can only be unwrapped slowly.
Beneath the thin veneer of “nothing” are layers of something stunningly, historically, culturally, naturally, creatively beautiful.
- The earth is simultaneously desert-hard and sand-silt soft, as if the entire surface was sifted through a flour sieve.
- “Red” is not the right word. I’m not sure there is a right word. The soil is a particular shade of burnt sienna that Crayola never thought of.
- “Green” runs the gamut from dusty sage, almost grey, through every subtlety of Mediterranean olive, to garish lime. There is plant life everywhere, even where it seems there is not.
- Where there are trees, they are black and gnarled; an aboriginal crone’s hand reaching out of the parched soil, grasping desperately at the sky, begging for water.
There’s nothing in the red center of Australia.
Except life in unexpected places:
- Lizards, big and small. Under rocks, in the shade, waddling awkwardly through the camp kitchen, picking at scraps.
- Great big, tick shaped beetles, huddled beneath pieces of curling bark on the trunk of a tree.
- Snakes (even though I don’t like them)
- Enormous, Wedge-tailed eagles whirling overhead, crouched over road-kill-a-roos, perched majestically on bare branches.
- Dusty children perched on piles of old rubber tires on turn offs to dirt roads leading nowhere.
- Flies; god, the flies.
- Wildflowers, in white and yellow, the tiniest things, blooming in a blooming desert! Against all odds, laughing at the sun.
- Heat is a living thing, dancing in an iridescent ball gown to music only she can hear.
There is nothing in the red center of Australia.
Except the beating heart of a continent:
- Dirt the colour of dried blood.
- A rock, like an enormous, petrified heart jutting out of the earth.
- I can hear the heartbeat, if I stand still, in the pounding of my own blood at my temples, agitated by the incredible heat, the searing sun, the blinding reflections.
At night, the “nothing” sings.
- Insect songs, celebrating relief from another day’s heat.
- Star songs, sung for thousands of years over sleeping souls by watchful guardians.
- The drumbeat of the darkness.
- The long, low hum of the moon; perhaps it’s echo inspired the didgeridoo.
- The grass whispers behind the melody, wind through long, feathery reeds.
- It’s a lullaby.
There’s nothing in the red center of Australia.
Unless you take the time to look.
Jen… WOW!!! I have total respect for your husband. I said to Tony just yesterday that this is one of those landscapes that is impossibly romantic looking… and yet it’s a death trap to all but a very, very few. The heat. There are no words. The NSA… interesting… I did NOT know that piece of history.
Thanks Melissa!! Duly noted! I don’t know how much time we’re going to have in Cairns, as we’ve pushed back our dive by five days so we can spend more time in the outback. The take-home message of this trip is that we need to come back and get a 1 year visa, buy a van and hippie it. 🙂
You are welcome Jennifer. Kim (Piddington) is a ‘rough and ready’ character, typical of people living in the outback. Often with little formal education but awesomely competent and self sufficient in the bush.
I met Kim while Marg and I were doing voluntary work in Sturt National Park. We have kept in contact via Facebook where he post some fantastic photos. I’m sure he’d be happy to be your FB friend too.
Do hope you get to see Uluru in the wet!
[…] long road trip from Geelong, south of Melbourne, over to Adelaide and then straight up through the Red Center of the country with some of our best friends, the Rickard Family. We hiked around Ayer’s Rock, […]